Digging in to knee pain
Over the past few week I have been experiencing a lot of knee pain during my cycling rides. Of course this sort of thing is a little concerning considering that I’m going to be cycling 100km every day. If I can’t cycle 60km without knee pain in a single day, what would 100km do.
I think that a lot of knee pain recommendations are pretty poor, having gone through most of them so far and now having a much better idea of what actually seems to work and what doesn’t, I’d like to note it for world-reference…
First, and most importantly is to locate your knee pain and determine it’s duration. Knee pain typically occurs on anterior (front), posterior (back), medial(inner side), and lateral (outer side) areas of the knee. The duration is generally either after warmup, during exercise, immediately during exercise, in the following day after exercise, everyday. Cycling Performance Tips has a good but unprioritised list of treatment suggestions for the various locations of knee pain.
Cycling puts smoothly cycling loads on the knee but the loads can be significant. Almost all cycling knee pain is from overuse injuries, not from strain injuries (overloading or overextension). These can be exacerbated by anatomical irregularities (such as leg length discrepancy), biomechanical errors (not pedalling correctly/seat position incorrect), and training errors (too many hills, too many miles).
So basically, you fix the real issue, the fact that you’re doing one pedaling motion all day, by trying to minimize the error. Ultimately you will always cure overuse injuries with rest, but this isn’t something that most cyclists (or any athelete) is interested in. But it needs to be said, one of the best treatments for any sports injury is RICE: rest, ice, compression, and elevation. All athletes would prefer not to rest, it takes away valuable training time and gives the competition an advantage. But performing suboptimally due to injury and the significant risk of more serious problems means that RICE treatment is critical during any injury.
My pain was anterior, and during exercise (specifically during high loads).
The first suggestion for any cyclist knee pain is the same as that of runners’ knee pain. The IT (iliotibial) band runs on the lateral side of the leg from the hip to just below the knee. Its main purpose is to stablize the legs laterally when the quadriceps and gluts are exercised. The IT band causes the knee pain because it pulls tightly and puts undue lateral stress on the knee during the exercise. While this pain is typically lateral, it was a factor in my knee injury, which was anterior.
Stretch: A lateral leg stretch is a good first step to try to tease out the IT band. I would recommend this stretch after warm-up and after a ride. Ultimately even if the IT band is not the cause of injury the relative lack of range of motion in cycling is going to spell bad news for your IT band eventually.
However IT band syndrome is generally caused by bike fit and foot placement on the pedal. This is also the cause of most anterior pain and a general stop on the trail to knee injury recovery anyway, so this was the next area to tackle.
Saddle fit: There are a thousand different ways to fit your saddle to your bike. I have read a number of them and will stick to the the DON’Ts rather than the DOs, because people tend to have strong beliefs about bike fit without a lot of rationale.
Saddle Height:
- Your saddle should be low enough that your heels can touch the pedal all the way through the stroke. Most important is the furthest point from your body which should be when it is parallel to the seat tube.
- The saddle should be low enough that your hips do not rock from side to side when you cycle. Have someone cycle behind you and sit firmly in the saddle to check this.
- Your seat can be as low as you like, but if it is too low, you risk losing power in your stroke and anterior knee pain. The general rule is that you keep your seat as high as possible while fufilling the above conditions, I prefer a bit lower than as high as possible.
Saddle fore-aft position
- A forward position of the saddle will put your weight over the pedals but make it harder to hold yourself up because less of your weight is on the saddle. You will tend to sit more upright in the saddle and thus have more drag.
- An aft-position of the saddle will put your weight on the saddle and behind the pedals, which puts more stress on your knees but is more comfortable for your arms if you ride on the bars/hoods.
- So, as far forward as you can go without making supporting yourself uncomfortable but not so far that your knee is behind the axle of the pedal at any time. We will discuss this more in the pedalling motion.
- Also note that because your seat tube is not vertical if you move the seat aft, you should have to raise it slightly while moving it fore will lower it slightly.
Saddle Angle
- FLAT! If you are pushing the nose down or up you can’t sit on it. Stop kidding yourself that your saddle is light, expensive, made by italians, etc. Get a new, comfortable saddle that serves your needs and, if you must, fit back your crappy race saddle on race day.
Amazingly my saddle was already in this green zone, so I was on to the next fitment area, pedal and cleat. Clipless pedals are a great benefit to the pedal stroke but few come with suggestions on how to fit them. If the cleat is too fore/aft you will pedal toes down or up. That’s fine if this is your preferred style but try it neutral first. Pedalling toes down means that your calves will be tightened most of the stroke. Using your calves can be a good boost to your pedal stroke but you can’t have sore, tight calves every day. More importantly for knee pain is the medial/lateral position of the pedal. If the Pedal is placed close to the medial (inside) of the foot, it will place more force on the lateral side of your body, straining your IT band and also causing the heels to rotate inward. Likewise the reverse is true if it is placed too laterally. This medial/lateral position is also influenced by the width of your hips relative to the width of your pedals. You can shim out your pedals and cranks or you can try to adjust out your pedals.
Clipless Cleat fit
- Wear your cycling shoe and mark the bottom of the shoe where it is widest on both sides. Take off the shoe and connect the lines. Where they intersect the cleat mount is where you should position your cleats.
- If you prefer a toes down stroke (where you press your toes out) move the pedal closer to your toes.
- If you prefer a heels down stroke move it to the heels.
- Be honest: do you have wide hips? Do you have lateral or lateral-anterior knee pain? Then move the cleat to a more lateral position (toward the outside of the foot).
- If you have medial knee pain or narrow hips, move your cleats toward the medial (inside).
These changes brought a serious improvement in my next ride. I actually had them set up terribly, so the new arrangement was much better for power and pain relief. But on hills pain still remained. Cue the final page in my knee pain search… biomechanical position.
If you are experiencing knee pain, fit your bike again. But more than likely you are making one of the following mistakes in your stroke or training:
- Knees rotate laterally or medially during the downward stroke.
- Heels rotate laterally or medially during the downward stroke.
- Ankle roll downward and inward or outward.
Essentially the proper stroke is a vertical plane where the knee moves straight in line with the shoulder and the feet. My major problem was that I tended to bow out my left knee, probably a habit from rowing, this was causing my heel to rotate inward only slightly and putting undue lateral and anterior stress on the knee. If your knees move inward toward the top tube, you may be reducing knee stress but it is not necessarily an efficient stroke. This sort of biomechanical training is critical in early training, particularly in long distance rides where you won’t move from the seat and essentially remain in the same stroke all day for as many days as you need to.
Unfortunately nothing is going to get you to pedal in that perfect stroke except a lot of retraining. That retraining is best done in superlow gears with cadences in the 80-90rpm range with very little work. Look down at your knee and watch for discrepancies, particularly outward movement. When in big gears the effect is magnified so look down while you’re spinning in a higher gear to check the progress.
I’ve been retraining myself for about 4 sessions now and the knee pain is gone. I can’t necessarily say I’m more efficient but I’m certainly not scared of a 6 hr ride now.









