Borobudur and Waisak
We arrived in Jogjakarta (this is also seen written as Yogyakarta, Djogyakarta, it’s all pronounced like Jog-jakarta). Sintha’s uncle then drove us to the town of Borobudur, which is the site of the famous Borobudur Temple, the largest buddhist monument in the world. Waisak was that day, and to our suprise the president of Indonesia was going to be speaking at the event. This meant a ton of police and military coverage. In short the event was organized chaos. Chinese, in my humble opinion, cannot be made to form lines. Neither can Indonesians, but Chinese seem particularly adept at disorganizing themselves in attempts to get in front of everyone. Waisak is a buddhist holiday, and as such most of the people there were Chinese Indonesians, so you can imagine what “procession” might look like, one that travels all the way from Mendut temple to Borobudur temple. Unfortunately, most of the really interesting shots and events were lost on us, like the offering and prayers at Mendut, and the events at Borobudur. We were ultimately tourists invading on the religion event turned rally. So we behaved as tourists should and simply sat around and gawked. The actual procession started at about 2:00PM, but with perhaps 15,000 people in a tiny town, and perhaps every annoying vendor of any sort from 100km around, it took quite a while for the line to form and the procession to leave mendut temple. Mendut is a reasonably large temple, and a quite small temple, Bima, sits between Mendut and the massive Borobudur. The procession was quite fast once it got going from Mendut, and we actually left Mendut ahead of the them to go back to the hotel and wait and were caught off guard when it started going past our hotel (which happened to be on the route) and quickly ran to join. We followed the procession all the way to Borobudur, and quickly realized that instead of an religious event this was akin to an overgrown Baptist revival with thousands poured into giant tents, projection screens and video, a massive soundsystem, and a number of speakers, including the aforementioned president were scheduled to speak. Realizing that that entire “rally” would be in Indonesian, and that the entire thing would probably hardly touch on buddhism itself as much as the politics of being a Chinese Buddhist in Indonesia, and most importantly, that the actual religious part started at 12:00 and ran till 3:30am, and we had hardly slept the night before, We agreed to go to bed and come back after the president spoke. So unfortunately, I missed my chance to see a foreign dignitary, but probably for the best, as we were barely able to wake up and get back when we did awake later that night.
Finally, I hoped that the Indonesian politics would be over and something interesting (to me) might transpire. Unfortunately the shear number of people crowded onto the base of the temple pretty much prevented that. Additionally neither of us knew what was supposed to happen. I had two written accounts of apparently much smaller ceremonies where people had gone on to the temple itself and in the traditional buddhist fashion, circled every level 3 times and then ascended until they reached the top. There were far, far too many people to make this practical, and I think that instead people circled around the base of the temple 3 times and left it at that. We did get candles and then sat as several people did “sermons” and unfortunately fell asleep as they were also in Indonesian (and probably pretty boring even if you did understand). Then, meditation, which at 3:20am is quite a struggle to stay awake anyway, and finally everyone was sprinkled with holy water by the monks. Sintha said that the holy water was apportioned by belief, so if you believed in it 50% you got 50% effective water. I think I got 100% effective water, but I’m not sure if that means I get anything good or bad, since it is buddhist, I think if I expect something I’m cheating.
After being sprinkled, we were a bit disappointed to see water bottles being sold (for a donation) that said “blessed water” and a number of people had purchased many bottles. To think I could have taken a shower with the stuff…
Then everyone was dismissed. Later, we would figure out that we probably should have stayed as it was nearly sunrise and apparently getting to see the temple at sunrise is a difficult (and somewhat expensive feat) but one that the guide books claim is impressive.
So then we went to sleep, and woke up and visited a ridiculously nice and ridiculously expensive resort called Amanjiwo in the hills overlooking Borobudur. This place starts at $650 per night, and goes up into the quadruple digits. The hotel is an impressive architectural feat in itself, and there were quite taken aback to have a few wandering walk-ins, and we got the full tour of the place, including looking around a room, of which they only have 35. Of course at that rate, they’re probably not ever booked up, and that’s how the people staying there like it.
Then we drove down to Borobudur temple proper and got in and had a tour. It seems that whenever we get a guide they are a bit goofy, but perhaps this is because we’re goofier. This guy was quite goofy, and we walked around the temple and he explained a few of the reliefs and the general design until we were kicked off due to sunset and the temple closing. The temple is designed as essentially a set of progressively small rings like a pyramid, culiminating in a single large stuppa at the top. The lower levels are carved with reliefs telling the story of buddha, stories about Javanese life, and smaller stories about good versus bad.
Near the top of the temple, it changes from squared to round and a number of stuppas, or bell-shaped domes with buddhas inside, start appearing. The stuppas are symbolic to buddhism, and the temple itself is considered a large stuppa as you cannot enter inside it (there is no inside as it is build into the hill it lies on). It is an amazing structure and made even more so by the fact that today it is a thriving, though touristy, town built around it.
We agreed to go back to Awanjiwo later that night for dinner, which was quite nice, as we were able to sit outside and have probably the most relaxed meal I have had in Java, which is so crowded with people that moments of solitude are golden. We also agreed to back to see Borobudur at sunrise, however due to the comically bad organization of the area surrounding the temple, we were first lost inside the area of empty vendor booths and parking lots, then later informed that to see the temple at sunrise we would have to pay 200,000rp, which seems like a small sum but in respect to the pricing around that area is pretty much ridiculous.
So, after waking up terribly early (the sun rises here at around 5:30 and sets at 5:30 as well, because it is so near to the equator), we sat around and waited for our driver to arrive who would be taking us to Dieng plateau later that day.
Unfortuantely, that story will have to wait, as it appears that I have ran out of time at this Internet cafe.
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